Crunch, Ooze: It's Fried Milk

[Draggingtree]

Crunch, Ooze: It's Fried Milk

By YA-ROO YANG

Published: July 9, 2008

 

IN China, it's called zha xian nai or chow lai; in India, gulab jamun; in Spain, leche frita and in Italy, latte dolce fritto or crema fritta, depending on where you are. Translated, they all mean the same thing: fried milk.

 

No, this is not a concoction created by molecular gastronomists, but rather a centuries-old street food with variations throughout the world and, increasingly, on local menus.

 

Order chow lai in Guandong in southern China, and you are likely to get a mixture of shrimp, chicken liver and Chinese ham stir-fried with custardy milk and egg whites. But in northern China, zha xian nai is a sweet crispy treat with a milky, pudding-like center, placed on the side of the savory plate to keep children happy while adults dine.

 

The Italians enjoy two versions of fried milk: latte dolce fritto, sweet fried milk, popular in central and southern Italy, and its close cousin, crema fritta, or fried cream.

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9D03EEDB1F3EF93AA35754C0A96E9C8B63&pagewanted=all

[Draggingtree]

(With a savory take, Bar Q serves garlic fried milk as a side dish for marinated lamb.)

 

Adapted from Anita Lo, Bar Q
Recipe: Garlic Fried Milk Adapted from Anita Lo, Bar Q

Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes, plus at least 4 hours for chilling
Adapted from Anita Lo, Bar Q
Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes, plus at least 4 hours for chilling
FOR GARLIC PUR?
26 medium garlic cloves (from about 2 bulbs), peeled
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
For milk mixture:
1 1/2 cups whole milk
3/4 cup evaporated milk
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon powdered gelatin, sprinkled over 2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped scallions (green part only)
Salt and ground black pepper
For batter and finishing:
Vegetable oil, for frying
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cornstarch
1 tablespoon baking powder
Salt and ground black pepper
3 cups very cold unflavored seltzer (soda water).
1. For garlic pur? Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Spread garlic across a small baking pan, and toss with oil and salt and pepper to taste. Roast until very soft, about 30 minutes. Pur?in a small food processor, or mash to a paste using a mortar and pestle.
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[Draggingtree]

(The chocolate crema fritta she serves was originally created for a Piedmont wine dinner several years ago)

 

Adapted from Revital Melech, Abboccato Restaurant

Recipe: Crema Fritta Adapted from Revital Melech, Abboccato Restaurant

Time: 1 hour plus at least 8 hours for freezing custard

FOR THE CUSTARD

3 1/2 cups heavy cream

3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

8 large egg yolks

3 ounces fine quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup cornstarch, mixed with 1/2 cup cold water

Butter, for greasing dish

FOR THE COATING

1 1/2 cups dry bread crumbs

1/2 cup hazelnuts

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs, beaten

FOR BANANAS

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons butter

2 bananas, cut crosswise into 1/4 inch slices

Canola oil, for deep frying.

 

1. For custard: In a heavy-bottomed pot combine the cream and sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Place yolks in a large mixing bowl. Whisk vigorously, slowly pouring in about 1/2 cup of the hot cream mixture while doing so. Turn off heat. Continue to whisk in remaining cream mixture, chopped chocolate, and salt. Let cool until no longer steaming, then mix in a blender until smooth. http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9D03EEDB1F3EF93AA35754C0A96E9C8B63&pagewanted=all