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Wine’s Sweet Spot Is a $20 Bill


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Wine’s Sweet Spot Is a $20 Bill




New York Times



Published: July 24, 2012









François Pinon Vouvray Brut NV


A richer sparkling wine that is nonetheless dry, snappy, pure and precise with an undertone of honey, the gorgeous signature of the chenin blanc grape. François Pinon, one of my favorite Vouvray producers, has a knack for coaxing the perfect combination of voluptuous body and laserlike focus from chenin blanc. LOUIS/DRESSNER SELECTIONS


Domaine de l’Octavin Arbois The Péteux NV


This frothy sparkling chardonnay from the Jura is exuberant and floral yet dry, steely and absolutely delicious, perfect for a lunch outdoors. Octavin is a small, rather new estate started by a young couple, Alice Bouvot and Charles Dagand. They are devoted to natural winemaking, and the Péteux is a pétillant naturel. Rather than bottling finished wine with yeast and sugar in the manner of Champagne, which induces a second fermentation to produce bubbles, a pétillant naturel is bottled before the first fermentation is complete, producing a softer fizz. ZEV ROVINE SELECTIONS, NEW YORK


La Clarine Farm Sierra Foothills Rosé 2011


This is not one of those onion-skin-colored rosés from Provence, which epitomize the Mediterranean style. It’s darker, a pale ruby blend of syrah and mourvèdre grown in the Sierra Foothills, most often the source of bold, powerful zinfandels. This wine is a lesson in balance and elegance, dry and mineral, light enough for an aperitif yet substantial enough to drink throughout a meal.


Dönnhoff Nahe Estate Riesling 2011


Dönnhoff is one of the great riesling producers. The estate riesling is a blend of grapes from several different sites and offers more than initially meets the eye. Poured directly from a chilled bottle, it seems gently pleasant and lightly sweet at first. But as the wine warms up, its elegant nature becomes apparent, and a richness and rocky minerality emerge. TERRY THEISE ESTATE SELECTIONS/MICHAEL SKURNIK WINES, SYOSSET, N.Y.


Nusserhof Vino Rosso Elda 2009 Scissors-32x32.png

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